Bwindi impenetrable national park (BINP) spans for 331 sq. km area into three districts which include Kabale, Kisoro, and Kanungu in Southwest Uganda. Buhoma sector, the northern part of Bwindi borders with Sarambwe Nature Reserve in DR Congo, forming an important trans-boundary ecosystem.
The protected area lies at the edge of the Albertine rift valley with altitude ranging between 1,160 m in the north to 2,607 meters above sea level in the south east at Rwamunyonyi, Bwindi’s highest peak in Ruhija sector. Nteko ridge is another prominent geographical feature located in the southwestern part of the park. This ridge stretches along the Kashasha River Valley, forming a natural corridor between Nkuringo and Rushaga sectors.
As such, the area is characterized by steep hills, narrow valleys blanketed by dense ancient montane and lowland tropical forest, believed to have survived the last Ice Age about 12,000 years ago. Concerted efforts to protect the forest started in 1932. The British colonial administration designated Kasatora and Kayonza forest reserves as Crown Forest Reserve. T
he two were joined and renamed as Impenetrable Crown Forest Reserve and in 1942 it was discovered that Bwindi is the most significant natural habitat for conservation of Albertine rift endemics and endangered species of flora and fauna including the mountain gorillas and chimpanzees, African forest elephants, and brown mahogany. In 1964, the Game Preservation and Control Act, 1964, initiated regulations to prohibit cultivating, grazing livestock, or hunting animals in any of the designated game reserve areas.
However, during Uganda’s turbulent history from 1970s to 1980s, some parts of Bwindi were degraded in the past due to human activities and remain visible today. Visitors on a gorilla safari to Bwindi can observe the ongoing ecosystem restoration efforts such as the Buniga forest, Kashasha River Valley and the buffer zone in Nkuringo sector, where the park boundary was extended in 2004.
In 1991, Bwindi impenetrable forest was declared a national park and a UNESCO world heritage site in 1993. This status strengthened protection of the park by Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) in collaboration with conservation organizations, and local communities. However, there are challenging to conserving Bwindi including population pressure.
The communities around Bwindi include the Batwa pygmies, Bakiga, and Bafumbira. They’re some of the most densely populated with 160-320 people per square kilometer which puts pressure on the park and also increases human and livestock contact with gorillas. This puts the gorillas at the risk of contracting human infectious diseases given that the primates share 98% of DNA with humans.
Gorilla tourism was officially introduced in Buhoma sector in 1993, where 3 gorilla families were first habituated. Over the years, more three gorilla sectors were created which include Rushaga, Nkuringo, and Ruhija, thereby reducing the environmental impact on Buhoma area along with spreading gorilla tourism benefits to other part of Bwindi.
More gorilla families have been habituated and there are now 22 habituated gorilla families for tourism, making for the ultimate gorilla trekking experience in the world. Bwindi is the only place that offers gorilla habituation and gorilla trekking experiences.
Flora and fauna
Vegetation in Bwindi impenetrable national park includes dense evergreen montane and lowland tropical forest, bamboo, swamps, and a network of over 5 rivers which support the ecosystem and provide water for wildlife and adjacent local communities.
The canopy layer in Bwindi impenetrable forest is divided into four different layers which include a high canopy with trees ranging from 21 to 65 meters, a mid-level canopy with trees between 21 and 40 meters, a lower canopy with trees ranging from 9 to 21 meters, and the understory and forest floor.
Tree species in the higher canopy of Bwindi comprises of brown Mahogany, Chrysophyllum gorungosanum, East African yellow wood, Entandrophragma excelsum (the tallest tree in Africa), Newtonia buchananii, Guinea plum, African cherry, Symphonia globulifera. Among other tree species in the mid height canopy include Albizia gumifera, Allophylus abyssinicus, Harungana madagascariensis, Macaranga kilimandscharica, Olea capensis subsp. Hochstetteri, Olinia usambarensis, Dichaetanthera corymbosa, and Tetrorchidium didymostemon.
Tree species in the lower stratum include Ekebergia capensis, East African satinwood (Zanthoxylum gilletii), and Balthasaria schliebenii. The understory consists of a variety of shrubs, ferns, and climbing plants including Spiny tree fern, Asplenium nidus, Dryopteris schizopaleata, Lygodium microphyllum, Entada abyssinica, ruber vine (Saba comorensis), Schefflera goetzenii, Millettia dura among others.
Due to a variety of plant species, Bwindi supports rich biodiversity including over 200 tree species of which 10 are endemic, 104 species of ferns; 459 of the 1,063 gorillas which is half of the world’s mountain gorilla population; 120 mammals including forest elephants, leopards, black fronted duikers, and giant forest hogs; 347 species of birds of which 24 are Albertine Rift Endemics (AREs); 7 primate species including chimpanzees, L’hoest monkeys, red tailed monkeys, olive baboons, and velvet monkeys; 202 butterfly species including the globally threatened African giant swallowtail and Cream-banded swallowtail.
Gorilla trekking sectors in Bwindi impenetrable national park
Bwindi impenetrable national park is divided into four sectors which include Buhoma, Ruhija, Rushaga, and Nkuringo. Each sectors offers different gorilla trekking experience, accommodation, and attractions described as follows:-
Buhoma
The first sector to host gorilla trekking safaris in 1993, Buhoma is the headquarters of BINP with good tourism infrastructure including the best luxury accommodations, making it ideal for luxury gorilla safaris. There are six habituated gorilla families which include Rushegura, Habinyanja, Mubare, and the first to be habituated, Muyambi, Katwe, and Binyindo.
Gorilla treks in Buhoma tend to be relatively moderate due to the nature of terrain and low lying altitude. The Mubare group is especially good to track for seniors and those intending to visit mountain gorillas for the first time. In addition to gorillas, Buhoma offers an opportunity to spot some of the AREs including the globally threatened Chapin’s fly catcher usually spotted along the Ivi River Trail.
Among other attractions include Bayenda Falls, the biggest waterfall in Bwindi. Buhoma is also a hiker’s paradise with several trails outside the park including Rushura, Munyaga River, and Buhoma village walk. Rushura trail winds along the hill where Bwindi borders with Sarambwe nature reserve offering a glimpse of the trans-boundary forest that links Uganda and DR Congo.
At the top Rushura Hill, visitors can enjoy views of the Rift Valley plains in Queen Elizabeth National Park to the north, Lake Edward and even parts of Virunga national park. Buhoma is 50 km (1-hour drive) south of Queen Elizabeth national park via Ishasha wilderness. The sector is served by Kihihi airstrip.
Ruhija
Situated in the east of Bwindi, Ruhija is 40 km (1-hour drive) southeast of Buhoma and 50 km northwest of Kabale municipality. Ruhija is located at the highest altitude of Bwindi with Rwamunyonyi peak at 2,607 meters above sea level. Below the hill there’s Mubwindi swamp, a vital habitat for birds and forest elephants.
As such, trekking can be challenging with longer and strenuous treks of 3-5 hours. There are four groups in total of which only two which include Bitukura and Oruzogo are the available for trekking. Although treks can be challenging, the Oruzogo group is known to forage closer to forest edges or even near roadsides, making for shorter treks at times.
Ruhija offers 16 gorilla permits available per day for booking through a tour operator. The other two families which include Mukiza and Kyaguliro are subject to behavioral research under UWA and the Max Planck Institute for Evolutionary Anthropology. UWA offers internships programs to students, scientists, and conservationists interested in primatology and wildlife research.
The mixed forest around Mubwindi Swamp contains Chrysophyllum albidum tree and bamboo which provide habitat for forest elephants during the dry and wet seasons respectively. Rwamunyonyi means a hill of birds so Ruhija offers fantastic birding with opportunities to spot the African green broadbill (Pseudocalyptomena graueri).
Ruhija offers fewer accommodations options including Bakiga lodge and Agandi Uganda Eco lodge which are just 1 km away from the briefing center. Ruhija is 92 km (2-hour drive) North West of Kabale municipality and can also be reached by air via Kihihi airstrip. Due to fewer permits, Ruhija doesn’t get crowds especially during the low season.
Rushaga
Located in the southern part of Bwindi impenetrable national park, Rushaga is 45 km (1-hour) north of Kisoro town and 175 km (4-hour drive) from Kigali via Cyanika border town of Rwanda. Rushaga is home to 8 habituated gorilla families of which one called Bikyingi is available for gorilla habituation experience.
This experience is perfect for those intending to spend 4 hours with semi-habituated gorillas. Among the gorilla groups in Rushaga include Nshongi, Mishaya, Bweza, Kahungye, Busingye, and Kutu. Visitors can enjoy gorilla trekking or habituation experience, making your visit to this sector unforgettable.
A total of 64 gorilla permits are available per day in Rushaga which offers relatively high permit availability during the peak season. In addition to permits, Rushaga also offers a wide range of accommodations including those on the shores of Lake Mutanda and Lake Mulehe outside the park.
Activities to do on these lakes include canoeing, boat ride, bird watching, and island walks. Those intending to stay at these lakes can take a day trip from Rushaga to Mgahinga gorilla national park, where you can enjoy golden monkey trekking and stunning views of the Virunga Mountains.
Nkuringo
Situated on Nteko ridge at 2,161 meters above sea level in the southern part of Bwindi forest Nkuringo is 45-minute drive from Rushaga. Nkuringo can also be reached on foot from Buhoma via the Nkuringo walking safari, a guided nature walk which connects both sectors.
The trek is 13 kilometers (8 miles) long and takes 4 hours to complete. The Nteko ridge offers good vantage points for a keen photographer. There are four habituated gorilla families which include Nkuringo, Posho, Christmas, and Bushaho. 32 gorilla permits available for booking per day. Gorilla safaris in this sector began in 2004 after habituation of Nkuringo group.
The gorillas used to wander into the adjacent community often raiding people’s crops. The international Gorilla Conservation Program in partnership with UWA purchased land about 12 km long and 350 meters wide and created a buffer zone along Kashasha River Valley with tea planting which prevented gorillas from going into people’s farmlands.
This group’s home range is large and the trailhead to visit them often involves short drive distances from the briefing center, making for a challenging trek. Treks to visit the other three groups mostly start at the center. Nkuringo’s briefing center is 5 minute walk from the luxury Nkuringo Bwindi Gorilla Lodge. Among other accommodations include the high-end Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge.
What to do and see in Bwindi impenetrable national park
Gorilla trekking in Bwindi impenetrable forest national park offers an opportunity to spend 1 hour with fully habituated gorilla families. Visitors must attend a pre-trek briefing that starts at 7 am at the visitor center to learn about gorilla trekking etiquette that includes keeping voices low and avoiding sudden movements when viewing gorillas.
Gorilla groups are allocated to visitors based on several factors including an individual’s physical fitness level and interest in specific gorilla families. Each gorilla trek varies in difficulty and duration and may take between 1-6 hours depending on the gorilla group’s location. As such, visitors can hire porters for gorilla trekking to assist with carrying their backpacks and give a helping hand when needed to navigate the steep and challenging terrain.
Hiring a porter isn’t only for the convenience but also to support the local community given that they come from villages which provide them with a reliable source of income, contributing to sustainable tourism. Once the guides locate the gorillas, visitors will spend 1 hour watching gorillas feed, play, groom, and interact in their natural habitat.
A safe distance of 7-10 meters must be maintained from the gorillas to prevent direct contact with gorillas. Visitors must also wear face masks to reduce the risk of transmitting human infectious diseases.
Gorilla habituation experience
Gorilla habituation offers an opportunity to spend 4 hours with semi-habituated gorilla groups in Rushaga sector. The permit cost is $1,500 per person available for booking through a tour operator. Habituation is a long-term research process of training wild gorillas to get accustomed to human presence.
This may take 2-5 years depending on how the gorillas gradually get to lose the fear of being around people. As such, semi habituated gorillas may exhibit unpredictable behavior when humans approach them. However, the trackers use their expertise to ensure that visitors get to see the gorillas. Given that only 4 visitors are permitted to participate this experience can be still be as good as regular gorilla trekking.
Birding
Bwindi impenetrable forest has 347 species of birds of which 24 are AREs that are rare to find in other parts of Africa including the globally threatened Chapin’s flycatcher, African green broadbill, and Shelly’s Crimson wing. Among other AREs include short tailed warbler, Archer’s robin chat, strange weaver, Blue headed sunbird, Rwenzori collared Apalis.
The best birding trails in Bwindi include River Ivi Trail in Buhoma and Mubwindi Swamp Trail in Ruhija sectors. According to African Bird Club the park was named Africa’s number one birding destination in 2012.
Community visits
Community visits offer an opportunity to support local tourism initiatives and also experience the local culture through activities such as visiting a traditional healer for his stunning metaphysics. Among other projects include handicraft making centers such as Ride 4 a Woman, Buhoma Village Walk, Rubuguri Poachers Turned Market Gardeners in Rushaga, Rushaga Batwa Valley Cultural Dancers and Gardeners, Bwindi Community Nutrition Project in Buhoma.
Buniga forest trail
Buniga forest covers 3 km and forms part of the larger ecosystem. It is managed by Nkuringo Community Conservation and Development Foundation (NCCDF). It serves as an example of community-based conservation focusing on preservation of Batwa pygmies’ cultural heritage. There’s a replica of their ancient hunter gatherer way of life, where you will witness their traditions including the pre-historic fire making Batwa style.
Nteko ridge community walk
This walk takes you through the village visiting the traditional healer for his stunning metaphysics, a black smith, a banana beer brewing activity, and a women’s craft center. This activity starts at Nkuringo Bwindi Gorilla Lodge.
How to get to Bwindi impenetrable national park
Bwindi is 512 km (8-hour drive) southwest of Kampala capital city and Entebbe airport and 165 km (4-hour drive) northwest of Kigali Rwanda. The park can also be reached by air through Kisoro airstrip for those intending to stay in Rushaga and Nkuringo sectors. Buhoma and Ruhija sector are served by Kihihi airstrip. Buhoma sector can be reached from Queen Elizabeth national park via Ishasha wilderness which offers an opportunity to spot tree climbing lions.
Where to stay
Bwindi offers a wide range of accommodations including luxury, midrange and budget lodges. Buhoma sector has the most luxury properties. Rushaga has the highest number of lodges in Bwindi including Four Gorillas Lodge.
Community tourism
Under the new conservation status, the locals were prohibited from using forest resources including edible plants, water, firewood, timber, wild honey, and medicinal plants. The communities around Bwindi include the Batwa pygmies, Bakiga, and Bafumbira.
In particular Batwa pygmies, who originally survived in the forest by hunting and gathering were evicted which disrupted their livelihood. Such deprivation caused poor attitude among locals towards conservation often leading to illegal acts of poaching and encroachment on the forest.
Poachers set snare wires to trap small antelopes and bush pigs for bush meat, however. Snares can end up injuring gorillas, putting a threat to their survival. To prevent human-gorilla conflict and maximize the benefits of tourism and conservation, a Collaborative Forest Management Approach was introduced by granting rights to the locals to use resources sustainably including bee keeping and collecting of medicinal plants in buffer zones.
When gorilla safaris gained momentum the revenue generated from sale of gorilla permits is invested to support conservation activities such as anti-poaching patrols and research on gorilla health and behavior. Revenue sharing scheme was introduced that allocates 20% of park entry fees to fund community welfare improvement projects through building schools, health centers, and clean water development projects, directly benefiting locals and giving them a stake in conservation.
Tourism also provides jobs for those working as tour guides, rangers, and porters. After realizing the benefits of conservation for their families, many poachers made the life-changing decision to leave poaching and participate in tourism thereby reducing dependency on the forest resources.
As such, The history of designating BINP as a national park in 1991 and a UNESCO World heritage site in 1993 reflects its importance for biodiversity conservation. The protected area contains a remarkable variety of vegetation which includes montane and lowland tropical forests, bamboo, and swamps. Over 5 rivers and streams crisscross Bwindi including Ihihizo, Ivi, Ntengyere, Munyaga, Ishasha, which provide water for wildlife and the adjacent local communities.